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January - Rest & Planning

What you can do to start planning for 2024

  • January to do’s: Dream and rest. Nature has to rest. Our bodies need to rest.
  • Listen to the season. With climate change, previously predictable dates like frost are harder to plan for. So be mindful of how the weather might change during the growing season and be prepared to cover crops or water more frequently.
  • USDA Plant Hardiness Zones have changed! This affects what is best to grow in which regions. Links to more information provided below.
  • When it is cold, the soil is preparing for Spring. Snow is important to help with this process. Snow provides the water reserve for Spring, so the less snow the more the plants might need watering. Soil will do its thing, so keep a close eye on how the climate is changing and its impact on what the soil is doing.
  • Pay attention to the lack of snow and be concerned. The soil that needs a certain amount of cold chilling hours won’t get them all. Some plants might come up earlier than previously, but then there might be another chill that can influence plants’ behaviors.
  • Keep an eye on early frost dates – they often predict April, but sometimes it’s not until May
  • Keep Notes – unexpected things might happen – Nature is dope

Questions to be asking as you are planning your garden:

  1. How many people are you growing for? – you might not need 6 tomato plants, or if you want to grow more can you connect with others growing and share? Limit waste
  2. What do you like to eat? Maybe don’t grow chard just because it’s pretty.
  3. How much space do you have? To learn more about growing in small spaces and containers check out the links to CGF’s resources pages.
  4. How much time are you going to dedicate to it? – July will come and it will be hot, will you be able to potentially water twice a day.
  5. Where are you getting your water from? – with less snow, plants will need more water care.
  6. What is worth it? – Strawberries usually get one nice harvest, do you feel they are worth the time?
  7. Consider nutrient density – “More bang for your buck”. If you are looking for something simpler that will be filling and healthy consider kale, chard, collard greens (but remember question 2)

Is there free compost? Interested in growing in compost

Responses: 

  • Research with biosolids is completed with animal waste, Chicago biosolids come from our systems including toilet waste and hospital waste
  • Use biosolids on ornamentals only! – don’t want Chicago waste into food – We don’t know just how bad Chicago biosolids are
  • Chicago Grows Food orders our Soil & Compost from https://www.cowsmocompost.com/, R & R will do testing and has compost, Midwest Compost

I have a strawberry patch, they come back every year, but they were small this year, what can I do to make them larger? Also 2 pear trees with smaller pears.

Responses:

  • Soil Test (information for free Soil Testing below)
  • Better to use slow release fertilizer than liquid fertilizer – can get the slow release from different plant stores – Kings (only open for growing season).
  • Thin out strawberries

When do you prune an apple tree

Responses:

  • Spring & Fall – gearing up for growing season and for rest
  • If they are at schools Openlands can do a demonstration to show you how to prune trees.
  • Connect with Tree Keepers – can potentially get volunteers to help – Al Dereu – https://openlands.org/people/al-de-reu/

Collected rainwater should not be used to grow your food

Responses:

  • No, it is recommended that you don’t, rainwater contains pollution and radiation, if it’s coming off the roof there is animal waste and other possible contaminants. Could filter and purify
  • Side note in chat: don’t garden in the topsoil. It’s full of lead and other contaminants that get in your food

If a seed has dried out can you revitalize it?

Responses:

  • If the embryo part of the seed is damaged, then no, but if the starch part is damaged then it should still be okay.
  • Side note: try planting it anyway! You can grow small plants and trees indoors for a while too; you don’t have to plant directly into the ground.

How long can you keep seeds? 

Responses:

  • You can keep them for a while, but germination diminishes every year. 

Can you Grow in a Container?

Responses:

  • Yes! Check out reusable fabric grow bags – learn more on the CGF website, links to resource pages below. Not recommended to use clay pots

Resources

Enero - Descanso y Planificación

Lo que puedes hacer para empezar a planificar para 2024

  • Cosas por hacer en enero: Soñar y descansar. La naturaleza tiene que descansar. Nuestro cuerpo necesita descansar.
  • Escucha la temporada. Con el cambio climático, las fechas previamente predecibles, como las heladas, son más difíciles de planificar. Por lo tanto, tenga en cuenta cómo puede cambiar el clima durante la temporada de crecimiento y esté preparado para cubrir los cultivos o regar con más frecuencia.
  • ¡Las zonas de rusticidad de las plantas del USDA han cambiado! Esto afecta a lo que es mejor cultivar en qué regiones. Enlaces a más información proporcionada a continuación.
  • Cuando hace frío, el suelo se prepara para la primavera. La nieve es importante para ayudar con este proceso. La nieve proporciona la reserva de agua para la primavera, por lo que cuanto menos nieve, más necesitarán riego las plantas. El suelo hará lo suyo, así que vigila de cerca cómo está cambiando el clima y su impacto en lo que está haciendo el suelo.
  • Presta atención a la falta de nieve y preocúpate. El suelo que necesita una cierta cantidad de horas de frío y enfriamiento no las recibirá todas. Algunas plantas pueden brotar antes que antes, pero luego puede haber otro frío que puede influir en el comportamiento de las plantas.
  • Esté atento a las fechas tempranas de heladas: a menudo predicen abril, pero a veces no es hasta mayo
  • Toma nota: pueden suceder cosas inesperadas: la naturaleza es genial

Preguntas que debes hacerte mientras planificas tu jardín:

  1. ¿Para cuántas personas estás cultivando? – Es posible que no necesites 6 plantas de tomate, o si quieres cultivar más, ¿puedes conectarte con otros cultivando y compartir? Limitar el desperdicio
  2. ¿Qué te gusta comer? Tal vez no cultives acelgas solo porque son bonitas.
  3. ¿Cuánto espacio tienes? Para obtener más información sobre el cultivo en espacios pequeños y contenedores, consulte los enlaces a las páginas de recursos de CGF.
  4. ¿Cuánto tiempo le vas a dedicar? – Llegará julio y hará calor, ¿podrás potencialmente regar dos veces al día?
  5. ¿De dónde sacas el agua? – Con menos nieve, las plantas necesitarán más cuidados hídricos.
  6. ¿Qué vale la pena? – Las fresas suelen tener una buena cosecha, ¿crees que valen la pena?
  7. Tenga en cuenta la densidad de nutrientes: “Más por su dinero”. Si está buscando algo más simple que sea abundante y saludable, considere la col rizada, las acelgas, la col rizada (pero recuerde la pregunta 2)

¿Hay abono gratis? Interesado en cultivar con abono

Respuestas:

  • La investigación con biosólidos se completa con desechos animales, los biosólidos de Chicago provienen de nuestros sistemas, incluidos los desechos de inodoros y desechos hospitalarios
  • ¡Use biosólidos solo en plantas ornamentales! – no queremos que los desechos de Chicago se conviertan en alimentos – No sabemos qué tan malos son los biosólidos de Chicago
  • Chicago Grows Food ordena nuestro suelo y compost de https://www.cowsmocompost.com/, R & R hará pruebas y tiene compost, Midwest Compost

Tengo un huerto de fresas, vuelven todos los años, pero este año eran pequeñas, ¿qué puedo hacer para hacerlas más grandes? También 2 perales con peras más pequeñas.

Respuestas:

  • Prueba de suelo (información para pruebas de suelo gratuitas a continuación)
  • Es mejor usar fertilizante de liberación lenta que fertilizante líquido: puede obtener la liberación lenta de diferentes almacenes de plantas: reyes (solo abierto para la temporada de crecimiento).
  • Adelgaza las fresas

¿Cuándo se poda un manzano?                                                                   

Respuestas:

  • Primavera y otoño: preparándose para la temporada de crecimiento y para el descanso
  • Si están en escuelas, Openlands puede hacer una demostración para mostrarte cómo podar árboles.
  • Conéctese con Tree Keepers: potencialmente puede conseguir voluntarios para ayudar – Al Dereu – https://openlands.org/people/al-de-reu/

El agua de lluvia recolectada no debe usarse para cultivar sus alimentos

Respuestas:

  • No, se recomienda que no lo hagas, el agua de lluvia contiene contaminación y radiación, si sale del techo hay desechos animales y otros posibles contaminantes. Podría filtrar y purificar
  • Nota al margen en el chat: no cultives en la capa superior del suelo. Está lleno de plomo y otros contaminantes que entran en los alimentos

Si una semilla se ha secado, ¿puedes revitalizarla?

Respuestas:

  • Si la parte del embrión de la semilla está dañada, entonces no, pero si la parte del almidón está dañada, entonces aún debería estar bien.
  • Nota al margen: ¡intenta plantarlo de todos modos! También puede cultivar pequeñas plantas y árboles en interiores durante un tiempo; No tienes que plantar directamente en el suelo.

¿Cuánto tiempo se pueden conservar las semillas?

Respuestas:

  • Puedes conservarlos por un tiempo, pero la germinación disminuye cada año.

¿Se puede cultivar en un contenedor?

Respuestas:

  • ¡Sí! Echa un vistazo a las bolsas de cultivo de tela reutilizables: obtén más información en el sitio web de CGF, enlaces a páginas de recursos a continuación. No se recomienda el uso de vasijas de barro

Recursos

February - Garden Scheduling

Don’t overthink it

  • Go outside, let plants do their thing
  • Connect with lots of different kinds of growers
  • Need more guidance? Use the internet, use social media, find local growers and ask questions

Winter

Suggestion: invest in a good grow light – will help us grow different things throughout the year and will provide good quality produce and a fuller harvest

What can you grow year round:

  • Microgreens (tender new shoots of vegetable plants, which are harvested before they reach maturity)
  • Can feed yourself for a long time – lettuce, spinach, head lettuce, dill or cilantro,
  • Full tray of microgreens with a grow light can create a salad, be added to enchiladas, tacos

What is passive Hydroponics? 

  • Passive hydroponics provides water only beneath the plant roots and doesn’t recirculate. The nutrient-rich water remains in the system until it’s used by the plants.
  • We can grow and feed ourselves in small spaces in different ways.
  • Typically use winter to build the quality soil we need

Spring

Growing 7 years ago is different than today; things are now shifting. Be prepared to adjust seasonally when planting.

March: Start thinking about what meals you want to eat, what meals you want your garden to help you cook and enjoy. Check out January’s discussion for questions to ask yourself as you plan your garden.

  • Making your list. Example: Davíd likes to make enchiladas so they would want tomatoes, tomatillos, and cilantro in their garden.

Start Seedlings (sowing seeds directly in the ground) in March to make sure you have a harvest in June. 

  • Lettuce, brussel sprouts, cauliflower, cabbage.
  • If you have the capacity, start your seedlings indoors
  • Can also try starting outdoors as seeds are resilient and will sometimes still sprout.
  • Cilantro, carrots, and beets will take longer because they want the sun.

Start acclimating your seedlings to prepare them to go from indoor to outdoor (hardening off).

  • Make sure they are tough, can handle the sun well, eaves and stems are standing up right, move with the wind, and can survive harsh conditions of living outdoors.
  • Giving them mild conditions to slowly get exposed to the environment
  • Always want to put them in shady areas, areas where they will still get exposed to the sun and get some sunlight.
  • If plants die or get sun damage they can sometimes still come back, they are resilient (If they are absolutely gone, you can compost them. Daviid or CGF can help supply more and new seedlings)

Many flowers can also be started in March/April

Summer

Start around May to acclimate plants to the outside. Planning ahead and slowly working your way into the garden so it is a nice full abundant garden

Summer loving plants are delicate to their environment

  • Pay more attention to sun exposure, where they are being acclimated, they should be cozy and well protected
  • Goal: Strong and healthy to harvest later 

KEY! Directly sow your seeds and transplants

Succession Planting (When your first crops are finished, make the most of the limited space and plan out second or third plantings. After all, your bed’s already prepared) – https://www.almanac.com/video/succession-planting

  • When planting cilantro – be prepared for planting more cilantro, more dill, more basil. As you harvest, you will continue to get more.

Companion planting can help with pollination, soil nutrients, pest management, and more. Companion Planting Guide.

Seeds from plants which season after season can adapt and grow better in the garden. Intentionally plan for seed saving through the season. Plants can give you the next generation of seeds.

Starting seedlings in July indoors or outdoors so you can get an October or November fall harvest.

Fall

During the fall still succession plant your radishes

Starting seedlings in July indoors or outdoors so you can get an october or november fall harvest. 

During Sep & Oct – good time clean up and remulch

December January – going back to growing inside

  • Hydroponics, growing food indoors, etc
  • Sharing harvest, sharing seeds, going on throughout the growing season
  • Keep feeding soil with compost – at least every 2 years
  • By the end of the growing season, soil will likely lack nitrogen so make sure you are feeding your soil
  • Continue nourishing and taking care of soil
  • Cover the garden with leaf mulch in spring and fall to allow it to slowly decompose and add nutrients to the soil.

Questions Posed During Discussion

What features make a “good” grow light?

  • “Cheap ain’t good, Good ain’t cheap”
  • The red and blue light bulbs do different roles – want to make sure you have both spectrums
  • Some are better for larger plants like cucumbers, tomatoes
  • Some only give ability to grow nice leafy greens, microgreens
  • Better lights will require more energy
  • Can use a combination of grow lights and light from windows
  • Can use smaller grow lights or grow lights with 4 wands, move the wands around – but it likely won’t be able to grow as much

I’m curious if we can / should start seeds earlier this year since Spring will be coming earlier? And how do we plan for that

  • Planning Resource: Old farmers almanac
  • Great grow guide
  • Great calendars
  • Might need to experiment a little
  • It’s okay if plants bolt because they can help bring pollinators and provide seeds.

Does non-soil grown food have the nutrition of soil grown food? – it’s complicated 🙂

  • Good soil is always good, but the nutrition benefits of soil grown food is still unknown. 
  • Generally better to grow and eat home grown food than none at all.
  • Nothing wrong with hydroponically grown.
  • Keep in mind that fertilizers are not healthy either, in the process of using soil you might end up using other materials.

If you can’t start your seedlings, are there places locally you would recommend?

  • Shared in chat – when I buy seedlings, I have enjoyed purchasing from Seguin Gardens in Cicero, Gethsemane and Farmers Market Garden Supply, as well as pop-up seedling sales like the Garfield Park Conservatory annual tomato seedling sale, the Tomato Man, buying at farmer’s markets, and trading with my friends who are growing perennial medicinal herbs as well
  • Urban Growers Collective has seedling sales as well. Reach out to them for more information. We will have seeds and seedlings available from the African Diaspora Collection and Southern Exposure collard varieties. Will be offered in the spring. 
  • Farm on Ogden does seedling sales as well!
  • Go to a nursery and ask questions:
    • Do you spray with pesticides or fertilizers? What do you use?
    • Where do the seeds/seedlings come from?

Do you do succession planting with microgreens during the winter as well?

  • Because of the one-cut nature of microgreens, succession planting is necessary to produce a steady supply of this crop. Sowing dates and quantities of seed sown should be based upon customer demand, delivery schedules, and varietal growth rates. As noted, different varieties grow at different rates. Keep records and modify your system as needed. (Source and More Info)

I heard it only makes sense to save seeds from heirlooms since they’re the most similar to their parent. But have you had success from 2nd generation hybrids?

  • Yes. Anytime you see seeds, do a germination test. Collect seeds season after season. They might not all grow, but it is worth trying. 

Does succession planting look the same for all plants?

  • Depending on your growing zone and how long your gardening season is, you can succession plant just about anything.
  • Guide to Succession Planting
  •  

Glossary of Terms –  Feel free to let me know if there was terminology you were unfamiliar with and we can build on this. 

  • Succession Planting: Succession planting, sometimes called successive planting, is the intentional staggered planting of the same crops in your garden that will allow you to harvest continuously throughout the season. This way of planting will also help you extend your season and allow you to grow different varieties appropriate for various parts of the season.
  • Grow Light: A grow light is an electric light to help plants grow. Grow lights either attempt to provide a light spectrum similar to that of the sun, or to provide a spectrum that is more tailored to the needs of the plants being cultivated.
  • Hardening Off: “Hardening off” is the process of getting your indoor-grown seedlings accustomed to life outdoors.
  • Brassicaceae: belonging to the broccoli family – broccoli, radish, cauliflower, arugula, cabbage, kale, kohlrabi, mustard, mizuna, cress, broccoli raab, etc.
  • Microgreens: Microgreens aren’t a special breed of vegetable: They’re just ordinary vegetables, any kind, that are harvested very young. Among the vegetables that are popularly eaten in micro-form are: peppery radish and arugula; tangy sorrel; ruddy beets; alfalfa; broccoli; and peas; as well as herbs such as basil and parsley. 
    • What’s the Difference Between Microgreens and Sprouts? – When a seed is sown in soil, it germinates, sending out a single shoot, tipped with a proto-leaf (or pair of leaves) called a cotyledon. Properly nurtured, it can grow an inch or more in a week until it eventually becomes a full-grown plant, but we have other plans for it. We can eat it before it gets any new leaves, when it’s just an inch or two long that’s called a sprout. Once it gets a pair of true leaves, it’s considered to have graduated from sprouthood: Now it is a microgreen. If it grows further, it will become a “baby green,” and finally a full-fledged vegetable.
  • Bolting: While plants do not “run away” physically, their growth may run away rapidly, and this is basically what this phrase means in the gardening world. Plants, mostly vegetable or herbs, are said to bolt when their growth goes rapidly from being mostly leaf based to being mostly flower and seed based.
    • Why Do Plants Bolt? – Most plants bolt due to hot weather. When the ground temperature goes above a certain temperature, this flips a switch in the plant to produce flowers and seeds very rapidly and to abandon leaf growth almost completely. Bolting is a survival mechanism in a plant. If the weather gets to be above where the plant will survive, it will try to produce the next generation (seeds) as quickly as possible. Some plants that are known for bolting are broccoli, cilantro, basil, cabbage, and lettuce.
    • Can You Eat a Plant After it Bolts? – Once a plant has fully bolted, the plant is normally inedible. The plant’s entire energy reserve is focused on producing the seeds, so the rest of the plant tends to become tough and woody as well as tasteless or even bitter. Occasionally, if you catch a plant in the very early stages of bolting, you can temporarily reverse the process of bolting by snipping off the flowers and flower buds. In some plants, like basil, the plant will resume producing leaves and will stop bolting. In many plants though, such as broccoli and lettuce, this step only allows you some extra time to harvest the crop before it becomes inedible.

Lentils Greens Microgreens

Resources:

Very High Level Timeline based on discussion

  • January/February – indoor growing – microgreens, herbs, lettuces
  • March
    • Starting seeds in soil indoors
    • Getting outdoor soil prepared
  • April/May – Start hardening off seedlings and planting into garden
  • May/June – Finish installation with summer crops
    • Examples: Tomatoes, peppers, basil
    • Succession planting
  • July – harvest March/April crop
    • Succession planting
    • Contempo Farmer starts fall crops
  • August/September – installing fall crops
    • Succession planting
    • Amending soil
  • November – shut down gardens – leaf mulch 
    • Sowing seeds

Febrero - Programación de jardines

No lo pienses demasiado

  • Sal a la calle, deja que las plantas hagan lo suyo
  • Conéctate con muchos tipos diferentes de productores
  • ¿Necesitas más orientación? Use Internet, use las redes sociales, encuentre productores locales y haga preguntas

Invierno

Sugerencia: invierta en una buena luz de cultivo: nos ayudará a cultivar diferentes cosas durante todo el año y proporcionará productos de buena calidad y una cosecha más completa

¿Qué se puede cultivar durante todo el año?

  • Microgreens (brotes nuevos y tiernos de plantas vegetales, que se cosechan antes de que alcancen la madurez)
  • Puede alimentarse durante mucho tiempo: lechuga, espinacas, lechuga de cabeza, eneldo o cilantro,
  • Una bandeja completa de microvegetales con una luz de crecimiento puede crear una ensalada, agregarse a enchiladas, tacos

¿Qué es la hidroponía pasiva?

  • La hidroponía pasiva proporciona agua solo debajo de las raíces de las plantas y no recircula. El agua rica en nutrientes permanece en el sistema hasta que es utilizada por las plantas.
  • Podemos crecer y alimentarnos en espacios pequeños de diferentes maneras.
  • Por lo general, usamos el invierno para construir el suelo de calidad que necesitamos

Primavera

Crecer hace 7 años es diferente a lo de hoy; Ahora las cosas están cambiando. Esté preparado para ajustar estacionalmente al plantar.

Marzo: Empieza a pensar en qué comidas quieres comer, qué comidas quieres que tu huerto te ayude a cocinar y disfrutar. Echa un vistazo a la discusión de enero para ver las preguntas que debes hacerte mientras planificas tu jardín.

  • Haciendo tu lista. Ejemplo: A Davíd le gusta hacer enchiladas, por lo que querrían tomates, tomatillos y cilantro en su jardín.

Comience las plántulas (sembrando semillas directamente en el suelo) en marzo para asegurarse de tener una cosecha en junio.

  • Lechuga, coles de Bruselas, coliflor, col.
  • Si tiene la capacidad, comience sus plántulas en el interior
  • También puede intentar comenzar al aire libre, ya que las semillas son resistentes y, a veces, aún brotan.
  • El cilantro, las zanahorias y las remolachas tardarán más porque quieren el sol.

Comience a aclimatar sus plántulas para prepararlas para pasar de interior a exterior (endurecimiento).

  • Asegúrese de que sean resistentes, que puedan manejar bien el sol, que los aleros y los tallos estén bien parados, que se muevan con el viento y que puedan sobrevivir a las duras condiciones de vida al aire libre.
  • Darles condiciones leves para que se expongan lentamente al medio ambiente
  • Siempre debe colocarlos en áreas sombreadas, áreas donde aún se expongan al sol y reciban algo de luz solar.
  • Si las plantas mueren o sufren daño solar, a veces aún pueden regresar, son resistentes (si han desaparecido por completo, puede compostarlas. Daviid o CGF pueden ayudar a suministrar más y nuevas plántulas)

Muchas flores también se pueden comenzar en marzo/abril

Verano

Comience alrededor de mayo para aclimatar las plantas al exterior. Planificar con anticipación y avanzar lentamente hacia el jardín para que sea un jardín agradable y abundante

Las plantas amantes del verano son delicadas con su entorno

  • Preste más atención a la exposición al sol, donde se están aclimatando, deben estar acogedores y bien protegidos
  • Objetivo: Fuerte y saludable para cosechar más tarde

¡LLAVE! Siembra directamente tus semillas y trasplantes

Siembra sucesiva (Cuando terminen sus primeros cultivos, aproveche al máximo el espacio limitado y planifique la segunda o tercera plantación. Después de todo, tu cama ya está preparada) – https://www.almanac.com/video/succession-planting

  • Al plantar cilantro, prepárese para plantar más cilantro, más eneldo, más albahaca. A medida que coseches, seguirás obteniendo más.

La plantación complementaria puede ayudar con la polinización, los nutrientes del suelo, el control de plagas y más. Guía de Plantación Complementaria.

Semillas de plantas que, temporada tras temporada, pueden adaptarse y crecer mejor en el jardín. Planifique intencionalmente el almacenamiento de semillas durante la temporada. Las plantas pueden darte la próxima generación de semillas.

Comience las plántulas en julio en interiores o exteriores para que pueda obtener una cosecha de otoño en octubre o noviembre.

Otoño

Durante el otoño, todavía la sucesión planta sus rábanos

Comience las plántulas en julio en interiores o exteriores para que pueda obtener una cosecha de otoño en octubre o noviembre.

Durante septiembre y octubre: buen momento para limpiar y remantillar

Diciembre Enero – volver a cultivar en el interior

  • Hidroponía, cultivo de alimentos en interiores, etcétera
  • Compartir la cosecha, compartir las semillas, continuar durante toda la temporada de crecimiento
  • Siga alimentando la tierra con abono, al menos cada 2 años
  • Al final de la temporada de crecimiento, es probable que al suelo le falte nitrógeno, así que asegúrese de alimentar su suelo
  • Seguir nutriendo y cuidando el suelo
  • Cubra el jardín con mantillo de hojas en primavera y otoño para permitir que se descomponga lentamente y agregue nutrientes al suelo

Preguntas planteadas durante el debate

¿Qué características hacen que una luz de cultivo sea “buena”?

  • “Lo barato no es bueno, lo bueno no es barato”
  • Las bombillas rojas y azules cumplen diferentes funciones: asegúrese de tener ambos espectros
  • Algunos son mejores para plantas más grandes como pepinos, tomates
  • Algunos solo dan la capacidad de cultivar verduras de hoja verde agradables, microvegetales
  • Mejores luces requerirán más energía
  • Puede usar una combinación de luces de cultivo y luz de las ventanas
  • Puede usar luces de cultivo más pequeñas o luces de cultivo con 4 varitas, mueva las varitas, pero es probable que no pueda crecer tanto

Tengo curiosidad por saber si podemos/deberíamos comenzar las semillas más temprano este año, ya que la primavera llegará antes. ¿Y cómo planificamos para eso?

  • Recurso de planificación: Almanaque de antiguos agricultores
  • Gran guía de cultivo
  • Grandes calendarios
  • Es posible que necesite experimentar un poco
  • Está bien si las plantas brotan porque pueden ayudar a traer polinizadores y proporcionar semillas.

¿Los alimentos no cultivados en el suelo tienen la nutrición de los alimentos cultivados en el suelo? –Es complicado 🙂

  • Un buen suelo siempre es bueno, pero aún se desconocen los beneficios nutricionales de los alimentos cultivados en tierra.
  • En general, es mejor cultivar y comer alimentos cultivados en casa que no cultivar ninguno.
  • No hay nada de malo con el cultivo hidropónico.
  • Ten en cuenta que los fertilizantes tampoco son saludables, en el proceso de usar la tierra podrías terminar usando otros materiales.

Si no puede comenzar sus plántulas, ¿hay lugares locales que recomendaría?

  • Compartido en el chat: cuando compro plántulas, he disfrutado comprando en Seguin Gardens en Cicero, Getsemaní y Farmers Market Garden Supply, así como ventas emergentes de plántulas como la venta anual de plántulas de tomate del Conservatorio de Garfield Park, el Hombre del Tomate, comprando en los mercados de agricultores y comerciando con mis amigos que también cultivan hierbas medicinales perennes
  • Urban Growers Collective también tiene ventas de plántulas. Comunícate con ellos para obtener más información. Tendremos semillas y plántulas disponibles de la Colección de la Diáspora Africana y de las variedades de col rizada de la Exposición del Sur. Se ofrecerá en la primavera.
  • ¡Farm on Ogden también vende plántulas!
  • Vaya a una guardería y haga preguntas:
    • ¿Fumigan con pesticidas o fertilizantes? ¿Qué utilizas?
    • ¿De dónde provienen las semillas/plántulas?

¿También realiza plantaciones sucesivas con microvegetales durante el invierno?

  • Debido a la naturaleza de un solo corte de los microvegetales, la siembra sucesiva es necesaria para producir un suministro constante de este cultivo. Las fechas de siembra y las cantidades de semillas sembradas deben basarse en la demanda de los clientes, los plazos de entrega y las tasas de crecimiento varietal. Como se ha señalado, las diferentes variedades crecen a diferentes ritmos. Mantenga registros y modifique su sistema según sea necesario. (Fuente y más información)

Escuché que solo tiene sentido salvar las semillas de las reliquias, ya que son las más similares a su padre. Pero, ¿ha tenido éxito con los híbridos de 2ª generación?

  • Sí. Cada vez que veas semillas, haz una prueba de germinación. Recolecta semillas temporada tras temporada. Puede que no todos crezcan, pero vale la pena intentarlo.

¿La siembra sucesiva es igual para todas las plantas?

  • Dependiendo de su zona de cultivo y de la duración de la temporada de jardinería, puede plantar en sucesión casi cualquier cosa.
  • Guía para la siembra sucesiva

Glosario de términos – No dude en informarme si hay alguna terminología con la que no esté familiarizado y podemos basarnos en ella.

  • Siembra sucesiva: La siembra sucesiva, a veces llamada siembra sucesiva, es la siembra escalonada intencional de los mismos cultivos en su jardín que le permitirá cosechar continuamente durante toda la temporada. Esta forma de plantar también te ayudará a extender tu temporada y te permitirá cultivar diferentes variedades apropiadas para varias partes de la temporada.
  • Luz de crecimiento: Una luz de cultivo es una luz eléctrica para ayudar a las plantas a crecer. Las luces de cultivo intentan proporcionar un espectro de luz similar al del sol, o proporcionar un espectro que se adapte más a las necesidades de las plantas que se cultivan.
  • Endurecimiento apagado: “Endurecimiento” es el proceso de acostumbrar las plántulas cultivadas en interiores a la vida al aire libre.
  • Brassicaceae: pertenecientes a la familia del brócoli: brócoli, rábano, coliflor, rúcula, repollo, col rizada, colinabo, mostaza, mizuna, berro, brócoli raab, etcétera.
  • Microgreens: Los microgreens no son una especie especial de verdura: son solo vegetales ordinarios, de cualquier tipo, que se cosechan muy jóvenes. Entre las verduras que se comen popularmente en forma micro se encuentran: rábano picante y rúcula; acedera picante; remolacha rojiza; alfalfa; brécol; y guisantes; así como hierbas como la albahaca y el perejil. 
    • ¿Cuál es la diferencia entre los microgreens y los germinados? – Cuando una semilla se siembra en el suelo, germina, enviando un solo brote, con una protohoja (o par de hojas) en la punta llamada cotiledón. Si se nutre adecuadamente, puede crecer una pulgada o más en una semana hasta que finalmente se convierta en una planta adulta, pero tenemos otros planes para ella. Podemos comerlo antes de que tenga hojas nuevas, cuando mide solo una pulgada o dos de largo, eso se llama brote. Una vez que obtiene un par de hojas verdaderas, se considera que se ha graduado de la brotes: ahora es un microgreen. Si crece más, se convertirá en un “verde bebé” y, finalmente, en una verdura en toda regla.
  • Bolting: Si bien las plantas no se “escapan” físicamente, su crecimiento puede huir rápidamente, y esto es básicamente lo que significa esta frase en el mundo de la jardinería. Se dice que las plantas, en su mayoría vegetales o hierbas, se disparan cuando su crecimiento pasa rápidamente de estar basado principalmente en hojas a ser principalmente en flores y semillas.
    • ¿Por qué se desprenden las plantas? – La mayoría de las plantas se desprenden debido al clima cálido. Cuando la temperatura del suelo supera una cierta temperatura, esto activa un interruptor en la planta para producir flores y semillas muy rápidamente y abandonar el crecimiento de las hojas casi por completo. El atornillado es un mecanismo de supervivencia en una planta. Si el clima llega a estar por encima de donde la planta sobrevivirá, intentará producir la próxima generación (semillas) lo más rápido posible. Algunas plantas que son conocidas por el brocócoli, el cilantro, la albahaca, el repollo y la lechuga.
    • ¿Se puede comer una planta después de que brote? – Una vez que una planta se ha atornillado por completo, la planta normalmente no es comestible. Toda la reserva de energía de la planta se centra en la producción de las semillas, por lo que el resto de la planta tiende a volverse dura y leñosa, así como insípida o incluso amarga. De vez en cuando, si atrapa una planta en las primeras etapas de brote, puede revertir temporalmente el proceso de broche cortando las flores y los botones florales. En algunas plantas, como la albahaca, la planta volverá a producir hojas y dejará de brotar. Sin embargo, en muchas plantas, como el brócoli y la lechuga, este paso solo le permite un tiempo extra para cosechar el cultivo antes de que deje de ser comestible.

Lentejas Verdes Microgreens

Recursos:

Cronograma de muy alto nivel basado en la discusión

  • Enero/Febrero – cultivo de interior – microgreens, hierbas, lechugas
  • Marzo
    • Semillas iniciales en el suelo en interiores
    • Preparar la tierra al aire libre
  • Abril/Mayo – Comience a endurecer las plántulas y plantarlas en el jardín
  • Mayo/Junio – Finalización de la instalación con cultivos de verano
    • Ejemplos: Tomates, pimientos, albahaca
    • Plantación sucesiva
  • Julio – cosecha Marzo/Abril
    • Plantación sucesiva
    • Contempo Farmer comienza los cultivos de otoño
  • Agosto/septiembre: instalación de cultivos de otoño
    • Plantación sucesiva
    • Suelo enmendado
  • Noviembre – jardines cerrados – mantillo de hojas
    • Sembrando semillas

 

March - Soil in your Garden

Soil Health definitions shared by participants

  • Compost, wood chips, food scraps
  • Soil that is beneficial to all living things and the people who tend to the soil.
  • A balance between what is being taken and what is being added to the soilI. 
  • I think of soil health as its nutrient density to nourish plants.
  • “When you change the composition of the soil, you change the composition of the community.”

Soil Health shared by Akilah

  • When you think about soil health, think about your health – Soil is one of our more important resources, and how we treat it is very important. The relationship we have with the soil is important.
  • What can we do now to sustain soil as a beautiful, living thing? 
    • It gives life, is always giving birth (it is a doula, a mother, a midwife)
    • What relationship we have with the soil will influence its health in the future

Soil has everything that we need – air, water, nutrients, minerals

Soil aggregate stability test (visit the CGF soil resource page to see a workshop about this). 

  • Let’s you know the stability of your soil 
  • With aggregates – you want to see a compilation of soil particles that are glued together (glued as in the microorganisms) – if it’s loose it’s easy to be dislocated.
    • We want the soil to be a stable as possible – roots help with this, as does the composition of the soil microbiology
  • Can also do a soil texture analysis by touch and feel with your hands
    • This assesses the density – the amount of clay, sand, silt affects water movement
    • If you have a lot of clay you have slow moving water, if you have a lot of sand, water will be fast moving

What soil can do & does

  • Regulates water – Soil helps control where rain, snowmen, and irrigation goes. Water flows over the land or into and through. – Soil is a Natural Filter
  • Sustains Flora and Fauna – The diversity and productivity of living things depend on soil.
  • Filter & Buffer potential pollutants – The minerals and microbes in soil are responsible for filtering, buffering, degrading, immobilizing, and detoxifying organic and inorganic materials, including industrial and municipal by-products and atmospheric deposits.
  • Cycles nutrients – Carbon, nitrogen, phosphorus, and many other nutrients are stored, transformed, and cycled in the soil.
  • Provides physical stability and support – Soil structure provides a medium for plant roots. Soils also provide support for human structures and protection for archeological treasures.

What does Organic mean?

  • When we talk about organic matter we are talking about the element carbon – the organisms are providing carbon and other nutrients to the soil.
  • When we talk about organic labeling – we are talking about something very specific about what is in this particular product – it is important that we are able to read labels and ask questions about what it means to be organic. At this point do we have anything that is truly organic with all of the modifications we have done. 
  • Soil is the foundation of nutrition – Huge exchange of energy of nutrients that we all need/desire.

Additional Information

  • Soil organic matter increases as you move south and east in the Great Plains.
  • North to South – The warmer the temperature is of your region the more processes will happen, less organic matter, because microbes like heat, bacteria likes warm – processes are going out of control – a lot of breakdown
  • West to East – organic matter increases because you have more moisture.
  • We have a lot of organic matter in Chicago because we get a lot of rainfall and it doesn’t get too hot very frequently.
  • You can regulate the amount of moisture in your garden by regulating your soil mix. 
  • Fertilizing means you’re adding something to help with fertility – Amending means you are trying to transform your soil for longer sustainability.
  • Dr. Martin doesn’t like to use “testing the soil” – Wants to be more philosophical since people generally don’t want to talk about soil. And when they do it’s often about testing the soil and “fixing the soil”.
    • Make sure to check what your relationship is with the soil. Energies are real. What energies are you transferring and exchanging when you put your hands in the soil, whether it’s a raised bed, ground, or indoor plant. You feed off of plant energy like they feed off your energy – think about Soil health, think about your health and how they are connected.
  • Ph is really important in soil – certain things grow better. Typically have a neutral Ph in Chicago. But further west has more acidic soil. Ph plays a huge role in how nutrients become available for the plant uptake. When Ph is not aligned with the nutrients we want, people want to fertilize to change the composition.

If we didn’t have the technology we have today, would you feel comfortable planting in Chicago soil?

  • One thing you can do that doesn’t involve technology is conversations with people who were there to understand how the land has been used. Quick way to gather knowledge of what was there before to understand what has been left there. 
  • Also just knowing the topography of Chicago – the glaciers – most of our soil downtown is land filled in from the debris from the Chicago fire.
  • For a house that is over 100 years old, how much is the soil damaging the food? – Lead is definitely there

Is it more difficult to get nutrients from plants grown through hydroponics?

  • Would need to put in the nutrients. 
  • Microgreens usually have a more complex flavor profile when grown in soil versus hydroponics. 
  • This is a more controlled environment – the human would need to have more inputs into this system. Ideally, you create a soil structure that is working effectively. Soil doesn’t want you touching it/manipulating it.

Is there a right balance based on where you are growing from the USDA or are we winging this thing? Definition of what is organic as it relates to gut health?

  • Just as nature is diverse, we are diverse, not everything can thrive in just one environment. We need to see things shifting and evolving with soil, earth, and ourselves.
  • We want a diverse rhizosphere – We want to be able to see a plethora of fauna and flora
    • If you see a diversity of the fauna coming to your area, you are doing something right. Including creepy crawlers and rodents.
    • Rodents help aerate soil – insects do this too, but rodents create bigger spaces

How do you know when to amend vs/ fertilize?

  • Are you in a hurry? – fertilizer to make sure you are adding everything the soil needs nutrient wise
  • Or are you in it for the long haul? – if you want something sustainable over a long period of time, trying to increase and enhance soil structure, make sure that you have soil permeability, high cation exchange capacity.
  • Can do both at the same time. Start with amendments and then do fertilization as needed.

How has recent changes in weather affected soil health and how do we respond to that?

  • We need snow – the snow melt supplies the water to our trees
  • Two seasons have been down on snow which will impact our lakes which will limit our water access
  • Huge impact – we can’t create water, and we will continue to be in droughts. 

What are some beneficial plants that can encourage or amend soil health?

  • Make sure you have continuous living cover throughout – always something growing
  • Peas
  • Beans (provides nitrogen to the soil)
  • Clover
  • Oats
  • Alfalfa

How do we think long term about our region’s soil health? What practices can we start as a food system that will reap benefits for our soil health?

  • Continuous living cover – make sure that we have something always growing. Living roots in the soil.
  • Need to maximize biodiversity
  • Minimize our disturbance of the soil
  • If you own property, you are responsible for taking care of the trees on your land.

Question about deep watering to encourage strong root growth: What happens to the microorganisms in the soil if you don’t let the soil aerate and dry? I understand letting the soil dry between waterings helps to prevent mold and disease along with promoting a robust root system but are there any more resources that can help me learn more about the importance of letting your soil dry?

  • Don’t till, but aerate soil
  • Want to keep microorganisms in the soil

April - Working with Insects & Animals in you Garden

Guests in the Garden – Wanted & unwanted

Gardening with urban wildlife – We are lucky to live in an urban environment co-existing with creatures of all kinds. These animals and insects are essential parts of our urban ecosystems

  • Our gardens are also part of this ecosystem (or it is best if they are). When you plant a garden, you are sending out an invitation to other species. You are guaranteed to have guests.
    • Some guests we are excited to see. 
      • Examples: Monarch Caterpillar on Milkweed, Black Swallowtail Caterpillars on Dill, Ladybug on leaf, Bumblebee, goldfinch, squash bee, eastern tiger, rusty-patched bumble bee, monarch, cardinal, ruby-throated hummingbird, hummingbird month
    • Some guests we are not so thrilled to see. 
      • Examples: beetles, squash bugs, rabbits, squirrels, rats, raccoons
  • Many creatures are complicated. What might be considered a “pest” in some situations can also be or become an important part of our garden ecosystem.
    • Example: The Tomato or Tobacco Hornworm is the bane of tomato plants. But it is also a caterpillar who morphs into the Sphinx Moth – a very beneficial pollinator
    • We need the unpopular guests to attract the beneficial guests. 
      • Example: Chickadee eating a cabbage looper
  • How do we strike a balance – allowing some wiggle room for some unpopular, less beneficial guests to attract the more beneficial guests.
  • Like any thriving ecosystems, our gardens are all about diversity and balance
    • So how do we co-create a healthy balance in our gardens?
    • How can we grow gardens that are inviting to our wildlife friends and even to some degree our frenemies?
    • As organic gardeners, how can we avoid poisons and pesticides and implement natural solutions to garden with nature, instead of against nature?

Physical and preventative controls work best. When you see that the damage is done to your plants, then it’s probably already too late.

Walk through your garden as much as possible to not only ground yourself, but to also check for any issues. Look at plant stems and foliage, and under leaves where insects like to lay their eggs. Prune off and dispose of dead/diseased plant parts. Hand pick off insects.

Wrap duct tape, sticky side out, around your fingers and tap the insects or larvae. They’ll come off on the tape.

 

#1) Just say no to monocultures, plant a diversity of plants

  • A monoculture (aka too much of any one thing) is ripe for disease and destruction and more vulnerable to loss. Not to mention it robs the soil of nutrients and harms beneficial bacteria and microorganisms.
  • Biodiversity is key! The more diverse your garden is, the more resilient it will be.
  • A diverse garden:
    • attracts a greater variety of insects and wildlife – which in turn creates a healthier garden ecosystem.
    • creates habitat – which supports beneficial wildlife.
    • minimizes weeds and improves soil – which makes diseases less likely.
    • is a vibrant jungle of vegetables, herbs, fruits, and flowers – is more fun and has more flavor.

#2) Try Crop Rotation

  • This can be difficult in our small urban spaces, but it’s possible.
  • Different plants need different nutrients and a vegetable plant grown repeatedly in the same spot will deplete the soil of those nutrients over and over again.  
  • And sometimes an insect or disease will force your hand.
    • For example, Squash Vine Borers overwinter in the soil and once established, they will gut your squash vines year in and year out.

#3) Companion Planting

  • Plants need friends, too. Grow plants together that benefit and support one another. Companion plants can help increase soil nutrients, encourage beneficial insects, deter unwanted wildlife, and support pollinators.
  • Some examples for beneficial insects:
    • Lettuce & Sweet Alyssum (aphid control)
    • Broccoli & Cosmos (aphid control)
    • Cucumber & Dill (cucumber beetle control)
    • Squash & Nasturtiums (squash bug control)
    • Cabbage & Chamomile (cabbage worm control)
    • Tomatoes & Basil (thrip & hornworm control)
    • Peppers & Radishes (radish serves as a trap crop)
  • Some examples for native pollinator support:
    • Strawberries & Golden Ragwort/Common Cinquefoil/New Jersey Tea/Golden Alexanders (Mason Bees, Miner Bees, Hoverflies)
    • Blackberries/Raspberries & Jacob’s Ladder/Smooth Penstemon/various Indigos (Bumblebees, Sweat Bees, Carpenter Bees)
    • Tomatoes/Peppers/Eggplant & Tall Coreopsis/Obedient Plant/Purple Prairie Clover/Leadplant/Blue Wild Indigo/Wild Bergamot/Purple Coneflower (Bumblebees, Carpenter Bees, Hawk Moths, various Butterflies)
  • Some examples for native pollinator support:
    • Green Beans & Common Milkweed/Butterfly Milkweed/Prairie Blazing Star/Wild Bergamot (Bumblebees, Leafcutter Bees)
    • Squash/Zucchini/Melons & Common Sunflower/Tall Coreopsis/Purple Prairie Clover/Tall Thistle/Wild Bergamot/Leadplant (Bumblebees, Squash Bees, Eastern Carpenter Bees)
  • General Native Plants for Your Vegetable Garden: Partridge Peas, Purple Prairie Clover, Wild Bergamot, Pale Purple Coneflower, Purple Coneflower, Leadplant, Blue Wild Indigo
  • The Native American Three Sisters Garden is the perfect example of companion planting. Grow corn, beans, and squash together.
    • Corn = serves as trellis for beans
    • Beans = fix nitrogen back into the soil 
    • Squash = provides a living mulch to prevent weeds and also deters unwanted insects and animals

#4) Try Trap Crops

  • Every garden needs some sacrificial offerings. Trap cropping uses plants as decoys to distract and draw away insects and other wildlife from your desirable crops.
  • You can use the same species as your main crop to serve as sacrifice plants. Or you can use different species as decoys.
  • What are some good trap crops?
    • Radishes (flea beetles, Harlequin bugs)
    • Amaranth (cucumber beetles)
    • Nasturtiums (aphids)
    • Sunflowers (stinkbugs)
    • Zinnias (Japanese beetles)
    • Marigolds (nematodes)

#5) Plant for Pollinators, Predators, and Parasitizers

  • One of the best methods for deterring unwanted creatures is to provide food and habitat for the species you do want. When you plant for beneficial bugs, you create a healthier ecosystem as a whole and your garden will thank you. 
  • Pollinators = bees, butterflies, flies, moths, wasps, hummingbirds
    • Honeybees are pollinators, but they are not as efficient or specialized as our native bees. They rely on native plants for food and habitat, so planting native pollinator plants will attract them. They will ensure better pollination of your food plants and some will eat the detrimental insects as well.
    • For example, Hover flies are excellent pollinators and their larvae are aphid-eating machines. Plant Coreopsis, Coneflower, Black-eyed Susans, and Sunflowers to attract them
  • Predators = Ladybugs, lacewings, praying mantid, spiders, assassin bugs, soldier beetles.
    • They eat other bugs and you want them in your garden. Did you know ladybug larva can eat up to 40 aphids an hour?
    • Attract them with flowering herbs and pollinator plants like Dill, Cilantro, Butterfly Milkweed, Alyssum, Marigolds, Cosmos, Bee Balm, Yarrow, Goldenrod, etc…
  • Parasitizers = Parasitic Wasps
    • Like something out of a sci-fi movie, they lay their eggs on or in other bugs and their larvae feed on the host insects.
    • Brachonid Wasps like to lay their eggs on the Tomato Hornworm. Once the eggs hatch, the baby wasps chow down on the host.
  • Mosquitoes – The best way to control mosquitoes is to control their larval stage. Use mosquito dunks to do this. Mosquito dunks use a non-toxic bacteria (BTI) that targets mosquito larvae.
    1. In spring, get a bucket, fill it with water, add a handful of straw or hay, set it out in the sun, and add a mosquito dunk
    2. The female mosquitoes will lay their eggs in that bucket brew and the dunks will do their work
    3. Each dunk lasts a month

Rabbits, Squirrels, Rats, Raccoons

  • All of the general tips are great strategies for incorporating biological controls and creating a healthy ecological balance in your gardens—especially when it comes to insects. But what about those other garden visitors—rabbits, rats, squirrels, raccoons, etc.? How can we discourage them from chomping on our plants?
  • Here we can look to nature as well. The right plants are often natural deterrents for many of these furry garden munchers.
  • Interplant the following with your food plants or as a border around your garden:
  • For example:
    • plants with a strong scent can sometimes discourage wildlife
    • for rabbits try onions, garlic, lavender, sage, hyssop, sweet alyssum, catnip 
    • for squirrels try nasturtiums, mustard
    • for rats try onions, mint, echinacea, thyme
  • There are also old-time remedies passed down from elders.
    • My mom swears that hair keeps bunnies out of her garden so she hits up her hairdresser for bags of hair.*
    • predator urine (fox or coyote pee)*
    • cayenne pepper*
    • talcum powder*
    • dried blood meal*
    • hot sauce and dish soap
    • Irish Spring soap shavings*

*all of these need to be reapplied again and again as the rain washes away the scent or they loose their effectiveness

  • Some people even recommend clear glass jars of water, mirrors, or aluminum foil because rabbits and squirrels are scared of the reflection.
    • Speaking of foil, if you have squash vine borer problems, try wrapping your young squash stems in aluminum foil. This helps to prevent the larvae from burrowing into the stems.
  • Physical barriers are your best course of action against hungry guests in your garden. Fencing, screening, netting, row covers, wire cloches, etc.
    • Chicken wire fencing or 1/4 hardware cloth: Install this around your beds about four feet off the ground. Critters can still dig under so bury it six inches deep as well. – You can also wrap this around individual plants like a cylinder for protection.
    • For raised beds, install hardware cloth or wire mesh at the bottom of the bed to deter burrowing creatures like rats and gophers. 
    • Try wire cloches or even dollar-store waste baskets to cover young tender seedlings and other vulnerable plants like lettuce.
    • Netting is a good protection against many animals, including birds. But it won’t deter insects and remember, you want those birds to eat some of the insects on your plants.

  • Rats eat what we eat and they love messy areas and dense plantings where they feel protected. They also burrow to make their nests.

    1. Seal compost bins and garbage cans 
    2. Remove access to food and water sources, including pet food and fecal matter
    3. Remove clutter and cut down grass and weeds
    4. Rats navigate w/ their whiskers and they prefer to use walls, curbs, and foundations to get around. Cut back vegetation 2 feet from the sides of buildings. They won’t have as much cover and they’ll be less likely to travel through these exposed areas. 
    5. Last Resort – Traps. Check with the city before installing.

Cicada Apocalypse 2024

The 17-year periodical Cicada will be emerging in Northern Illinois. In central Illinois it will be synced with the 13-year Cicada emergence. For about 4–6 weeks (from around mid May to late June), millions of big, red-eyed insects will take over the great outdoors. It will be loud and it will be crunchy.

But guess what? They will be mostly harmless…mostly.

  • One thing to consider is that they can potentially harm young trees and shrubs, especially fruit trees. After the deafening mating calls, the females often make small slits in slender twigs to lay their eggs. Think 3/16” to 7/16” branches—the size of a pencil. The nymphs will hatch, fall to the ground, and lay low for another 17 years. But the egg-laying can pose problems as those small slits can weaken and damage young, vulnerable trees and shrubs. 

Some strategies to minimize damage:

  1. If you have smaller or newly planted trees or shrubs, consider wrapping them in fine-mesh netting before the May emergence. Make sure to tie the netting to the trunk at the bottom. Remove the netting after the emergence is over in June.
  2. Delay planting any smaller new trees or shrubs until after the emergence ends in June. Even better wait until fall (which is a great time to plant trees and shrubs anyway).

Organic pesticide alternatives:

  • Soapy water: mix 2 tsp of dish soap w/ 1 pint of water; spray on soft-bodied insects like aphids, mites, whiteflies, and thrips; for Japanese beetles, hand pick them off and drop them in the soapy water
  • Essential oils: mix 10 drops of oil with 1 cup of water in a spray bottle —try rosemary oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil for some insect larvae like cabbage loopers
  • Try peppermint oil, orange oil for squash bugs, aphids, whiteflies
  • Last Resort – Neem oil?
    • Neem oil is from the seeds of the Neem tree. It has two active ingredients: Azadirachtin and clarified hydrophobic neem oil. It is used on both insects and fungal diseases. For insects the oil coats their bodies and suffocates them. It can be effective against aphids, beetle larvae, lace bugs, leafhoppers, leaf miners, thrips, and whiteflies. However, like all broad spectrum pesticides, it can also harm pollinators and beneficial insects.

Is it better to companion plant in the same soil or can you still get the benefits of companion planting when plants are in separate containers but in close proximity to each other? 

  • Yes, can do in containers near each other – does not need to be in the same soil

Where can you look up companion plant pairings?

Why do you need the straw and not just water for dealing with mosquitos?

  • Creates a brew that attracts the female mosquitoes to lay their eggs

I have a few young trees. Will they be ok not to plant until fall? They are currently housed in the small planters they arrived in

  • Should be fine, but will need to protect them if they are outside.

Is painting a tree’s trunk a good strategy to prevent damage from cicadas?

  • Not sure – probably not

May - Adding Native Plants to the Garden & Why it Matters

What is a Native Plant
  • Shared from participants
    • Natural to the environment
    • Any plant growing in the place where it is from. Adapted to thrive in collaboration with the ecosystem where it grows
    • Born here not brought here perhaps?
    • Native/Indigenous – milkweed, millgrass, bunchberry
    • Millions of years – climate has changed
  • Shared from Speaker
    • False Indigo – Native Plant to Chicagoland
    • Most plants are native to somewhere
    • A plant that is originally from a certain place
    • It has evolved to be used to weather patterns
    • Usually are perennials – come back every year
    • Will have certain systems, seed in a type of way that makes them come back every year. This also means that these plants have evolved alongside people so have been used for food, medicine, dyes, and more.
Planting for Multiple Uses – Stacking Functions
  • Food/Medicine for you
  • Food for wildlife
  • Stormwater capture
  • Building soil
Native Herbs
  • Anise Hyssop – In a lot of parks, along the river, prairie areas. This is an herb that has a sweet flavor and aroma (ofter said to be similar to licorice). People use it when they have a sore throat or excess mucus or will be talking for a long time.
    • Part of the mint family – can be identified by its square stem
    • Bees love it!
  • Wild Bergamot/Bee Balm – Has an oregano flavor profile. Can be used flavor wise similar to the way you use oregano (except it might be a little more potent). Can also be good for cold and flu to help cleanse the system – supports antiviral activity as does oregano.
    • Bee’s also love this one!
  • Yarrow – good to add to your herbal first aid kit – helps stop bleeding or good to help reduce menstrual bleeding. Also great for fevers and has been known to be used as a “protective herb” – kept in pocket to stay safe.
  • All three herbs have been used for spiritual purposes and cleansing.
Native Host Plants
  • Monarchs > Milkweeds
    • Milkweeds are the only plant that monarchs lay their eggs on.
    • What Monarchs eat
    • Little monarch caterpillars become toxic.
  • Black Swallowtail Butterfly > Golden Alexander
    • Swallowtail Butterflies also love dill and parsley (things in the carrot family), they also love native plants.
  • Fritillary > Violet
    • Violet is a native plant – many people consider the violet plant as a weed or an invasive species (glossary below).
    • Violets are good for the lymphatic system
    • If you make a tea with violet and you see it turn purple, add lemon – it will hypothetically change colors.
  • Tiger Swallowtail > Paw Paw tree
    • Paw Paw makes the Paw Paw fruit – one of the largest native fruits to the area
Oaks
  • Native to the area – white, red, and black oaks
  • “Queens” of supporting wildlife
  • Support over 900 species of caterpillars
    • Caterpillars are the food source for over 90% of songbirds
    • Major contributors to our food web
  • Over 600 different Hymenoptera species (mostly sawflies, small wasps, ants, bees)
  • Can absorb at least 100 gallons of water a day
    • Can transpire over 40 thousand gallons of water a year which helps cool the air
Goldenrod
  • Often in bloom around September/October
  • People have used them for dying things & for medicinal purposes
  • A lot of native medicine presents itself at the most opportune time
    • Violet comes up in the spring which is really good for helping your lymphatic systems and detoxification to bring you back to life after winter
    • Goldenrod are coming in the fall to help your immune system.
  • Helpful for both native bees and caterpillar species (most native plants are one of the other)
  • Important source of pollen for monarch migration
Getting Started
  • How much space do you have?
  • Probably wouldn’t plant in a raised bed
  • Sunlight
  • Soil Texture
  • Wind
  • What purpose do you want for your native garden?
    • Rain garden, pollinators, herbs, shade
  • Helpful Charts Attached
When to plant native plants
  • Seedlings:
    • Spring: after mother’s day
    • Fall: starting in September through the frost – tend to be more resilient because they can be rooted.
    • Want to get them established before it gets too hot
  • Seeds
    • Fall through end of February
      • Need 30 days of cold before they can really start to grow
    • If you want to plant seeds in Spring, you can try putting the seeds in the refrigerator to see if it works
Caring for a Native Garden
  • Keep seeds moist
  • Water seedlings once a week
  • Mulch!
  • Weeds! – if you see something that you didn’t plant, but you see is growing, get it out
    • Bindweed will wrap around your plant
  • Roots:
    • A lot of native plant roots can go up to 15 ft deep. This helps roots collect a lot of water which helps hold on to water, helping climate change
    • Going to see a lot more extreme storms – Native Plants can help build the soil and be resilient during those storms
    • What Native roots go so deep into the soil it adds organic matter into the soil which helps the composition.
Glossary:
  • Weed – just something you don’t want
  • Invasive – Takes over your garden (not always bad)
Nurturing Native Garden in parents yard – started with invasive species like buckthorn and daylilies.
  • Takes a long time to grow – so will need to keep a close eye on weeds for years
  • Best time to mulch is mid April to mid May (maybe June) because that is when everything is starting to pop up. If you are familiar with the plants you don’t want, you can cover them with mulch to “suffocate” them.
What do I do with unwanted plants?
  • Most effective thing to do is to put it in a black plastic bag (unfortunately) – will help to overheat and kill the plant
  • Don’t want to compost certain things if the roots are on it or seeds are on it
  • Try to avoid using herbicide because it is toxic
What kinds of native plants grow in shade?
  • Columbine – thrive the best in a little bit of shade
  • Review the Native Plant List and look in the sunlight column for plants that need partial sun or no sun.
People are replacing grass with clover – is this a good idea?
  • Probably yes – other cover crops are good too.
  • Native plants are not the end all be all for conservation
  • Clover is really good because it is also an herb – good for menstrual cycle
Do a lot of native plants need to be planted from seedlings? Or can I just put the seeds in the ground?
  • Personal relationship with the Garden
  • To plant seeds in the ground in Spring but them in the fridge for 30 days and then plant
  • Seed planting is ideal in the Fall
  • Better to start from seedlings in the Spring
  • Don’t plant in grass – grass roots are already in competition with each other so a seed would struggle
  • From Chat – Winter sowed this year and it was amazing! – Take a milk jug and some soil to create a greenhouse – this allows for plants to acclimate
Can I create a native garden with container planting?
  • One of the most important things for our gardens is pollinators!
  • Flowering native plants are one of the best ways we can bring in pollinators.
  • Creates an ecosystem to support our edible garden.
  • Planting in containers is not Ideal since a lot of native plants have deep roots, but there are some that don’t go as deep.
  • Aim to get deep containers – fabric grow bags help to do some “air pruning” as the roots start to go through the bag.
  • Recommend – anise hyssop & yarrow – Wouldn’t grow an oak tree or a black eyed susan

 

Illinois Native Plant Guide

 

June - Harvesting & Cooking

5 Tips on When to Harvest
  1. Harvest in the early morning after the dew dries. This is when vegetables are at their juiciest and most flavorful. Produce will keep longer and not become limp from heat; this especially refers to leafy greens like lettuce and chard and herbs such as parsley and basil. It also applies to crisp fruiting vegetables like peas and anything in the cabbage family, broccoli, and radishes.
  2. Once a crop starts producing, check the garden every day! Zucchini can grow from 2 inches to 2 feet very quickly, and you want to pick them at 6 to 8 inches. Beans do not wait for anyone. If you don’t keep picking beans once they get started, they’ll simply slow down. Or, if you let those cucumbers grow as big as baseball bats, the plant will assume that its reproductive period is over.
  3. Bigger is NOT usually better. This is a common novice mistake. Big beets, beans, or okra pods will only taste tough and woody; big radishes will turn into balls of indigestible fiber.
  4. Be gentle when you pick. Never yank fruit or vegetables. Stems and branches are easily broken, inviting disease. Use two hands to pick; hold the stem in one hand and pick with the other. If the crop is ripe but doesn’t easily pull by hand (such as eggplant), use scissors, pruners, or a knife.
  5. Not all fruits and vegetables ripen the same way. Pears are picked when they are still hard! Watermelons, squash, and cucumbers must be fully developed before being picked. Tomatoes, apples, and peaches can ripen on or off the vine.
If you’re growing your own, you have a major advantage over grocery store produce because they often need to pick well before the vegetable has reached peak flavor and nutrition.
 
There are lots of things that can be harvested in June. Here are some of the things that are ready, when to harvest, and how to harvest them.
  • Asparagus – Cut spears when they are about 6 to 8 inches long; otherwise, the base will get too tough. Look for tightly closed tips and firm yet tender stalks that are about as thick as your pinky finger. Cut or snap at the soil surface (no deeper) before the tips begin to separate.
  • Basil – Harvest as soon as the flower buds begin to appear (but before they open) for the best flavor.
  • Beets – Look for small to medium-sized roots (1-1/2 to 3 inches in diameter). Beets can be harvested at any time, but the larger ones will often be tougher and woody. Beets should have smooth, firm flesh, show a rich color, and have healthy green leaves (not wilted).  If you are eating beets for their greens, they can be harvested anytime once their leaves are 4 to 6 inches long.
  • Blackberries – Look for plump berries with a uniform black, shiny color with a hint of dullness. Avoid reddish color. Don’t wash berries until ready to use.
  • Cucumbers (seeds can still be planted) – Once cucumber plants get started, harvest frequently (e.g., daily or every other day). Bigger is NOT better with cukes. If they start to turn yellow, their seeds harden, and they’ll taste bitter. Small cukes are the sweetest and have the softest seeds. Pickling cucumbers should be between 2 and 6 inches, and other cucumbers between 6 and 10 inches. Look for richly dark, glossy green skin, a firm and heavy body, and no yellowing at the blossom end. Harvest the fruit by cutting stems with a sharp knife or pruners; never pull or tear. Not only does harvesting frequently ensure the best taste and texture, but it also keeps the cucumber plant producing!
  • Kale – Harvest kale leaves when they are the size of your hand or a little bit bigger (6 to 8 inches long).  As with spinach, younger leaves will be more tender. Cut with a knife or scissors, starting with the outer leaves at the bottom of the plant and working your way up; be sure to leave seven or eight leaf crowns to regrow after harvest.
  • Peas – Harvest garden peas as soon as the pods are elongated (about 3 inches) and feel full, but before the peas start to show or bulge and before the pods begin to yellow. Snip the pods off the vine with scissors or pruners. It’s best to pick a “test” pod and open it to see if the peas have filled it. Mature peas should taste sweet, crisp, and juicy! They need to be eaten soon after harvest because otherwise, they’ll turn into little starch balls. Also, you must harvest peas daily or every other day because they’ll stop producing quickly if they get too mature.
  • Radish – Pick radishes when they are just 1 inch in diameter, or they will turn “hot” and woody. Look for a firm, smooth, well-shaped body. The color should be bright. The leaves should be healthy and green. Use a garden fork to lift them out of the ground gently.
  • Strawberries – Ripe strawberries are fully red in color and shiny. They’ll be plump and green-capped and have a fragrant aroma. Don’t wash berries until ready to use.
  • Squash (Summer) – Smaller is better when it comes to zucchini and other summer squashes! With a pruner or knife, harvest when 6 to 8 inches long when they’re the most tender and flavorful. Once summer squash starts producing, pick DAILY and go in the morning just after the dew dries. Pick pattypan squash at 2 to 3 inches long, round zucchini at 3 to 4 inches, and longer trombetta squash at 12 to 14 inches. If you leave squash too long, the tender skin hardens, it gets seedy and watering, and its flavor goes away.

Bruschetta (15 minutes, 4 servings) – Bruschetta Recipe Card

Ingredients:

  • 4 roma (plum) tomatoes, diced
  • ½ loaf French bread, toasted and sliced
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon olive oil
  • 1 ½ teaspoons balsamic vinegar
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 2 tablespoons fresh basil, thinly sliced
Directions:
  1. In a bowl, toss together the tomatoes, basil, and garlic. 
  2. Mix in the balsamic vinegar, olive oil, salt, and black pepper.
  3. Serve on toasted bread sliced

Tips:

  • Let the mixture sit for 30 minutes to an hour to let the flavors blend together.
  • Be creative! Add chopped onion, crushed red pepper flakes for a kick, or other thinly sliced greens like swiss chard or arugula!  

 

Kale and Roasted Beet Salad (Makes: 8 servings, 1 cup each) – Kale & Roasted Beet Salad 

Ingredients:
  • 5-6 small roasted beets
  • 1 bunch kale
  • ½ cup pecans
  • ½ cup feta or goat cheese
  • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
  • 1 tbsp maple syrup
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • 1 tsp honey
  • Salt & pepper to taste

Directions:

  1. Preheat oven at 400˚F. Thoroughly wash the beets, and then wrap them individually in foil. Place them on a baking sheet and bake for 40-60 minutes. Larger beets take longer, so check them every 20 minutes. They are finished when you can easily pierce them with a toothpick.
  2. Once cool, cut the rough tops off beets, peel roasted beets, and cut into small pieces. Set aside.
  3. Place pecans in a small pan and toast over medium heat for 2-3 minutes, stirring often to prevent them from burning.
  4. Remove pecans and spread out on parchment paper. Drizzle honey over the toasted pecans while they are still warm.
  5. Clean kale, remove leaves from the stalks, and cut or tear into small pieces. Add a pinch of salt, and massage for 30 seconds. Let sit.
  6. In a separate bowl, whisk together the balsamic vinegar, maple syrup, and lemon juice. Slowly add olive oil while continuing to whisk until the dressing is thickened. Add salt & pepper to taste.
  7. Add beet wedges and crumbled cheese to the salad.
  8. Chop cooled pecans into smaller pieces, and sprinkle over the top of the salad

July - Frequently Asked Questions

When and How Often Should I Water My Plants?

  • Plants typically need about an inch of water per week.
  • Factors that can influence how much water a plant needs: weather, soil type, container size and type, and what types of plants you have in your garden.
    • Different plants have different necessities for water – depending on the climate some plants need more water than others
    • Can also be considered when thinking about companion planting – which plants like compatible amounts of water
  • Check in with the garden at least once a day and see how things are doing
    • One of the best ways to check the water is putting your finger into the soil an inch or more down. If I feel the soil is dry, then it’s time to water.
  • Always try to water at the base of the plant, not overhead to help prevent plant diseases from spreading as you water. Also keep in mind that fabric grow bags and containers dry out more quickly than raised beds.
  • The best times of the day to water are in the morning or around the time the sun goes down, once the hottest part of the day is over. You want to avoid watering in the middle of the day because a lot of the water will end up evaporating instead of going to the roots.
    • Note: Evening watering is slightly less desirable because plant leaves that remain wet throughout the night are more susceptible to fungus diseases.
  • You can cover your soil with a very thin layer of mulch (careful not to put too much!) to help hold in the moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

How can I Protect Plants from Pests and Diseases?

  • Companion planting is a great way to protect plants from pests.
    • Planting strong-smelling plants like mint, chives, cilantro, garlic, basil, and thyme will repel pests.
    • You can also add flowers like marigolds, nasturtium, and sweet alyssum as companion plants in your garden.
      • Plants like marigolds may not only help protect your vegetables from pests and diseases, it will also bring pollinators and other beneficial insects, like ladybugs, to your garden. Ladybugs are great because they will eat pests that you don’t want in your garden.
    • Planting basil with tomatoes is a great way to deter tomato hornworms, and basil will also attract bees which help pollinate the tomatoes.
    • Peppers/Parsley/Eggplant
  • Another easy and affordable way to deal with pests and disease is by removing pests by hand as soon as you see them or spraying homemade sprays, like diluted neem oil or a mixture of vinegar and water on the leaves and soil can help kill fungus and pests.
  • Diatomaceous earth, a powdery substance you spray onto leaves that kills insects that come into contact with it but is safe for humans.
  • Another important prevention method is using clean harvesting and gardening tools is also important, as dirty tools can harbor diseases that can then transfer to your plants. You’ll want to remove dead leaves and leaves touching the soil on an ongoing basis to help deter pests.
  • To repel cats, rats, and squirrels from messing with your gardens — creating a smelly plant barrier, or a physical barrier can help. Cats don’t like citrus, so try leaving citrus peels at the border of your garden. Add bark mulch to cover the soil that the cat might want to use as a litter box.
  • Note from chat: I use orange peels in garden & kept the white moths away

I installed a drip system – how long do we keep that running – which parts of the garden beds do we leave on?

Any tips or suggestions on pruning tomatoes…should or should not.

What are good companion plants for cucumbers?

  • Marigolds and nasturtium
  • Also note: cucumbers need to be pollinated to produce fruit, so they will need a male plant and female plant and pollinators (usually 2 plants in a garden is enough for this to work).

I put my starters (tomatoes, eggplant & bell peppers) in right after mother’s  day. My tomato plants are growing.  Eggplant starting to get taller. Bell peppers are the same size. I use irrigation rainwater and give them 20/20/20 fertilizer. How do I get them to start producing?

  • Could be an issue with the heat this year, might be too much sun.
  • Could be the fertilizer. If this is used differently than last year it might be impacting the peppers.
  • Most likely the soil. Could be worth adding some compost to enhance the soil composition. Probably worth testing the soil to see what nutrients might be missing and if it has the nutrients that support pepper plants.

Am I able to start cucumbers or green beans from seed now?

  • Absolutely, look at different varieties and check how long it will take to mature.

I let my lettuce/collards/mustard greens grow too long and now they have flowered and dried out. What is happening?

  • This is called “bolting” or “going to seed.” Bolting or “going to seed” is a normal part of many plant life cycles. Bolting flags the near end of a plant’s life cycle.
    • When a plant bolts, it redirects its energy away from the root or leaf production and instead directs its energy towards elongating its form, sending up a tall central stalk that “bolts” toward the sky and develops flowers, which eventually turn to seeds.
  • The leaves and roots change form and usually become bitter or tough. So, the plant’s taste is usually no longer pleasant at this stage and no longer good for harvest. The bitterness is actually the result of the plant’s defense mechanism, protecting it from anything that might want to eat it at this stage.
  • Plants may also bolt due to drought, transplant shock, pests, diseases, crowded spacing, hot weather, and other forms of plant stress. A stressed plant may say “Oh no! I will die soon, so I must make many babies so my species can survive!”
  • When you notice your plant starting to bolt, you have options:
    • Pull the plant out entirely and plant something else
  • If you notice the plant is bolting sooner than you want it to, you can try to prevent it for the time being by removing the flowery stems as soon as you notice them.
  • Or you can let it go to seed. The main benefit of letting a plant go to seed is that you can save those seeds and plant them next season! Another big benefit is that the flowers will attract pollinators, which are super important for keeping gardens productive and looking beautiful.

Can I direct sow into my grow bags? What is direct sowing?

  • Yes you can direct sow into your grow bags!
  • Direct sowing means planting the seed directly into soil outdoors. Some advantages are that you don’t have to worry about transplanting, or hardening off your plants, and seeds are much cheaper than seedlings at a store.
  • The best way to direct sow into a grow bag, follow the instructions on the seed packet and make sure to keep the soil moist with frequent but gentle watering. Young seedlings need more watering than older plants too.

What seedlings can be grown now? Later?

  • For direct sowing: July through August is still a good time to plant radish, carrots, beets, turnips and kale.
  • For late August and September: it will be a good time to plant cool season crops like broccoli, cabbages, carrots, cauliflower, mustard greens, radishes, spinach, arugula, and lettuce for fall harvesting.
  • You can remove all summer crops and replace them with some of these fall crops. You can reuse the soil and grow bag or container and add more soil & compost, unless the previous plant in that container was diseased then you may want to replace all of the soil.
  • Planting dates generally depend on the last spring frost and the first fall frost. If it’s unusually hot in September, you might benefit from planting the previously mentioned fall crops in a partially shaded part of your garden to avoid early bolting and keeping an eye on them regularly.
  • Since we live in a place that is so reliant on weather and nothing stays super consistent, it’s important that we, as gardeners, don’t blame ourselves or give up too soon. Be patient and open to learning and trying different things.

How do I know when something is ready to harvest?

  • Every plant is different, there are a lot of different ways to tell when something is ready to harvest, things like color and size are good indicators of ripeness.
  • Try tasting something that might look ready to harvest and decide from there!
  • The best time of the day to harvest is the early morning for the best flavor.
  • Once the plant starts producing, check it every day or so to see if there’s anything that can be harvested, because at this stage things will grow super fast!
  • Generally, it’s best to harvest before it becomes oversized, summer squashes are a good example, because they lose their ideal flavor and texture the larger they get.
  • For crops like collards, kale, and leaf lettuce, harvest the outside leaves first and leave smaller leaves so they can keep growing. This way, you will get a steady source of greens throughout the season!
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